A Guide to DIY Tree Pruning

If you have one or several trees in your yard, it's handy to know the basics of tree trimming and pruning. Armed with some general knowledge and the right equipment, you can handle many projects yourself, keeping your trees healthy and beautiful for years to come.

With that in mind, here's your guide to amateur pruning.

Reasons for Pruning

People typically prune their trees for three reasons:

Safety: If branches are encroaching on power lines, your roof, your driveway, your neighbor's yard or other hazardous places, it's best to cut them back. (In the case of power lines, never prune the tree yourself. Call in a pro.)

The three Ds: This means diseased, dying or dead limbs. You'll greatly improve the health of your tree if you remove these branches. Also, pruning interior branches can improve the airflow throughout the tree, contributing to its overall health.

Beauty: Pruning can maintain a tree's size and general aesthetics, but pruning will permanently change a tree's appearance, so prune with care.

Necessary Equipment

Now that you've decided to prune your trees, you'll need the right tools. These include saws with special pruning blades, chain or pulley tree pruners, loppers and chainsaws.

To Cut, or Not to Cut

A rule of thumb to follow when deciding to cut? The smaller the branch, the better. That's because trees recover faster from smaller cuts than large ones. The U.S. Forest Service offers these guidelines about pruning and branch diameter:

• Under 2 inches: Go ahead and cut it.
• 2 to 4 inches: Weigh your options.
• More than 4 inches: Only remove this branch if it's a safety or tree health situation.

Pruning Cuts

Pruning falls into three categories: crown thinning, raising and reduction.

Thinning: Thinning is removing the number of branches on the tree. It's generally done to improve light penetration and airflow. No more than one quarter of the branches should be removed at one time.

Raising: Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown. If your tree's branches are hanging down obscuring your sidewalk or street sign, for example, you'll want to "limb them up."

Reduction: This involves reducing the height of a tree, but it is a very traumatic procedure for the tree itself and should only be used as a last resort. It results in large pruning wounds that could lead to the decay and eventual death of the tree.

Technique Basics

Pruning DIYers oftentimes get it wrong in terms of when, where and how to cut a branch. Proper cutting is all about location and the angle of the cut. Here are the basics you need to know:

When to cut: It's always best to prune a tree during its dormant season. That's in the winter or early spring when the tree is generally in "hibernation." Pruning when the tree is dormant minimizes damage to the tree, but it's especially critical for oaks and elms. Pruning at other times can spread oak wilt and Dutch elm disease.

Where to cut: The ideal location to cut is the spot where the branch meets the trunk, an area known as the branch collar. Cut as close to the collar as you can get without actually cutting the collar.

How to cut: Cut downwards at a 45- to 60-degree angle. If you're working with a large, long branch, cut it in stages, starting at the end of the branch, to reduce the size and weight of the limb you'll be dealing with on the final cut.

Also keep in mind that if you're cutting limbs that are above your head, they're going to fall to the ground. Even a slim branch can do damage as it thuds to terra firma. Make sure kids, pets — and you! — are out of harm's way.

Should I Call in the Pros?

You can do basic tree pruning yourself, but there are certain situations in which you should call a professional: if your branches are overhanging or touching power lines, if the job requires a tall ladder, or if the limbs are very large. Put safety first and let the pros handle it.

When you're ready to prune your trees, we have the right tools for the job. At Fleet Farm, we've got you covered.